A few weeks ago, on one of my lovely Sunday mornings, I made some banana chocolate chip muffins and started knitting a pair of thick socks to wear as boot liners in my good-as-new, free boots. Now, I am happily already several days into the rapid process of wearing them out, and I am ready to share the pattern-- the first ever pattern for a knit thing that I have developed myself! Yay! Before I get around to the technicalities, can I just say that on a personal level, I consider this a big cause for celebration? One thing that is totally awesome about getting older is the slow, steady and witless accumulation of knowledge. Our brains are just snowballs rolling down the hill-- I hardly thought I would ever be able to write something as math-y and arcane as a knitting pattern, but this thing works! Maybe you can try it, and let me know if there are any adjustments or improvements you would make? As it is my first one, I imagine there is room for improvement, but I am confident you will come out of this with a hearty, wearable pair of boot socks.
So here they are: Svalbard Socks!!
Quick explanatory note, in case you are the type to closely scrutinize the photos for inconsistencies: yes, the toes of the socks are two different colors, and this was only because I ran out of that grey right before the end of the second sock. In the pattern notes, I will assume you want a totally polished look, and suggest you continue the toe with the same color. But you can obviously be as lax with the "rules" as I was, if it serves your supplies.
Second note of full disclosure: I worked out the pattern for the snowflakes over the course of knitting these. I did not think it really necessary to rip out the first run even though I wasn't quite satisfied with them, so also present in these photos is a slight discrepancy in the final look of the color work pattern. Here is what they should look like, followed with a close-up of the snowflake I wasn't quite happy with.
 |
| Happy snowflakes! |
 |
I think the second snowflake here looks more like a tree covered in snow,
because of that strong middle stem. In my final design,
I broke up the middle line to create a flakier geometry. |
Alright, on to the stats…
Size:
- This pattern is for an adult woman's size 8-ish foot, and is meant to fit snugly over a base layer hiking sock. I use these as boot liners, but you might also find them useful as a comfy pair of slippers, or maybe a Christmas stocking!
Finished Measurements:
- Foot circumference: will comfortably stretch to 26 cm
- Leg circumference: will comfortably stretch to 38 cm at mid-calf
Materials:
- 300 meters/150 grams bulky weight yarn. I used 3 skeins in 3 colors of Dale Garn Heilo, 100% wool, 22 sts = 4" in recommended gauge on 3-3 1/2 needles-- I give you this manufacturer's information so you can make an informed choice on finding a similar yarn, but note that I went rogue on needle size and am working towards a different gauge than the recommended one.
- 4,0 mm double-pointed needles, 20 cm or longer
- Tapestry needle
Gauge:
- 12 stitches x 18 rows = 8 cm in stockinette stitch
Pattern Notes:
This is a top-down sock pattern, written for 5 double-pointed needles. You can use circular needles if you prefer. I recommend knitty.com as a reference tool if you need help with any of the technicalities or basic execution of technique. I have followed their method of
standard abbreviations, as well.
The socks are worked identically for both feet... unless you really, really want to give yourself the work of mirroring the color work pattern, which has been noted at that step in the process.
Cuff:
Cast on 44 stitches in color A (grey), divide onto four needles, and connect in the round to work the second row.
Work in k2, p2 rib for 16 rows.
Leg:
Work six rows of stockinette stitch in color B (gold), then three rows stockinette in color C (white). Now, we've come to the color work band!
 |
| I know there is some simple way to digitize this graph, but I don't really do that. |
Here is my a photo of my hand-drawn color work pattern, meant to be read in the standard fashion (i.e. right to left, each square equalling one stitch as you would knit across the row). The only element of this that may be more confusing than if I could make a nifty digital graph is that the coloring is opposite-- you knit the dark grey color on the white squares (color A = white blocks) and the white snowflakes on the dark squares (color C = dark squares). But you are in charge of your life, and so if this is too confusing, you can choose different colors or redraw the graph for yourself in a more logical manner. Repeat this graph twice around the leg of your socks, so that each sock has four snowflakes on it.
Note for those who want to get fancy and mirror things: on the second foot, start in the middle of the graph with the second snowflake and rebound to the beginning, so that you knit the snowflakes in opposite order. BUT: oh my gosh, don't sweat it if that sounds too loopy. I like to take Elizabeth Zimmerman's advice from
Knitting Without Tears when she basically said that if you aren't finding the knitting experience relaxing, you might want to reconsider what you're doing with your time. No one will notice if you knit the socks identically or mirrored, or if you mess up a lot on the way to either result… It's no biggee, as we tried to say nonchalantly in middle school.
Continuing on with the leg:
Knit three rows of stockinette stitch in color C, stopping before the last two stitches of the third row. K2tog. This is the first of 4 reductions you make on the leg; you now have 39 stitches.
Knit three rows color B, then three rows color C. Again, on the last two stitches of the last row of color C, k2tog. Repeat this striping pattern twice more, so that you have three stripes of color B and are working on the fourth stripe of color C. Once you repeat the final reduction at the end of the fourth stripe of color C, you should have 40 stitches on your needles. Work three more rows in color B.
Heel:
Work 10 stitches across in color A, then turn to begin the heel (knitting those ten stitches across first just lines up the "seam" of where you have been switching between colors along the back of the calf, which I find aesthetically more pleasing than if the seam were to end up sort of randomly along the side of the leg).
Purl 20 stitches across on the work side. These are your heel stitches, and the other 20 stitches you are holding on your other needles will just hang out and whistle a tune for a while until we're ready to pick them back up.
Turn work. Slip the first stitch, then work the row k1, slip1 to end. You should end on a k1.
Turn work and repeat these two rows thirteen times more, ending on a right side row.
Now, the heel turn…
Next row: Turn work and purl 13 stitches, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: Slip 1, k5, k2tog, k1, turn.
Next row: Slip 1, purl until one stitch before the gap (this gap was created where you k2tog in the last row), p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: Slip 1, knit until one stitch before the gap (created where you p2tog'd in the last row), k2tog, k1, turn.
Repeat the last two rows until all stitches have been worked. You should now have 10 heel stitches.
Gusset:
Pick up and knit 13 stitches from the slipped stitches along the side of the heel with color B. Continue in stockinette along the 20 stitches you have been holding for the top of the foot, and then Pick up and knit 13 stitches along the other side of the heel. Knit across the 10 stitches of the heel. You should have 56 stitches.
As you knit the gusset, you will do a double reduction every other row as follows:
Next row: Knit to the last three stitches on the first side of the heel, k2tog, k1. Knit across the top of the foot. K1, ssk, then knit around to the end of the row.
Next row: Knit all.
Repeat these two rows until you have only 40 stitches left. At the same time, you can continue to alternate between color B and color C every three rows, to create the striping pattern. If it helps to check your work, this will mean that the reductions fall on the second row of every stripe of color B and the first and third rows of the every stripe of color C.
Foot:
In simplest terms, knit in stockinette for 21 more rows, or until your work measures about 4 cm less than the desired length. For the exactitudes of my striping pattern, follow:
Knit three rows color C, three rows color B, three rows color 3, 6 rows color B, 3 rows color A.
Toe:
Now you are working in color A, and you need to do a quadruple reduction every other row. Make sure your needles are divided evenly onto four needles, and follow the (ha!) following:
First round:
- Needle 1: Knit to the last three stitches, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to the end
- Needle 3: Knit to the last three stitches, k2tog, k1
- Needle 4: K1, ssl, knit to the end
Next round: Knit all stitches.
Repeat those two rounds until you have only 20 stitches left. Divide the stitches so they line up parallel on two needles. Cut the yarn, leaving a good long tail to sew with (about 18 inches, in my American memory, maybe 50 cm in my new European world of measures?). Break out the tapestry needle, and kitchener stitch to close! If you need an explanation of kitchener stitch, I refer you again to knitty.com, for their wonderful, clear
instructions. And incidentally, if you don't already know what magic kitchener stitch is, you really should try it! It's a magically seamless seam, making it look like you've never even been there. Amazing.
Anyway, there you have it! Svalbard socks!
 |
| My two-toned toes. |
 |
| And at work keeping my toes warm. |
And not a moment too soon. Take a look at how Tyler captured the beautiful moonscape over what is now officially the polar night...
